When the time for the perfect twilight has arrived, and the falling ambient exterior light and interior glow from the practical lights are perfectly balanced, it’s time to add your hot light or flash. Before, during, and after twilight, you should have the camera set in one place on a tripod and every couple of minutes, shoot a bracketed set of images at 0 EV, -2, and +2, or something similar, whatever your preference may be. You’re waiting for that perfect balance between falling ambient exterior light and interior glow. Whereas the ambient light may create a muddier appearance due to having no directionality, incoherent color casts, or being mixed with the falling light of the day. Adding flash or hot light will dramatically clean up the quality of light, by giving it direction and fall off. The aim here is to add light in spots that appear to have natural light falling on them – either from landscape lighting or interior lighting. I personally use either a Lowel GL1, Yonguo Speedlight or Profoto B1 light to pull it off, depending on how much power I’ll need. All without burning through expensive sheets of 4×5 film, or having to dress like Steve Jobs to keep yourself from showing up in the exposure. You can use a single Speedlight and see the results instantly. Luckily, things are a bit easier these days (to me, at least). They would literally stop down the aperture, wear an all-black outfit, and wave a light around for a 30-60 second exposure to fill in shadows and give the image some nice snap. Back in the old days, depending on how old you are, there were many photographers who painted with light. One technique that I’ve adapted to use with modern photographic tools is light painting. Light painting for architecture photography
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